In the shadow of the Sierra Nevada mountains, Reno lights up the Nevada desert like a twinkling ode to entertainment. A swift complimentary airport transfer drops me off at the Peppermill’s grand entrance. Check-in is seamless, despite there being over 1,623 rooms and suites to keep track of. My spacious fourth-floor Deluxe Two Queens room is gilded to the hilt and overlooks the pool and mountains.
On the walk to breakfast, it’s clear this is a 24-hour hotel. Slot machines clink, waitresses deliver drinks to blackjack tables and couples order lobster in the restaurants. There’s no sense of time or routine — everyone’s here for a good time. The three-storey, gold-hued Spa Toscana offers respite from the hustle of the casino floor with massages, pools and lounges. There are 10 dining options. I try sushi at Oceano, huge bowls of pasta at Biscotti’s and oozing cheese toasties at Cafe Espresso. I’m most impressed, though, by what goes on behind the scenes. The hotel is the first in the US to be wholly powered by its own geothermal energy source. The dazzling lights of the resort are a beacon of green, it turns out.